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Frankincense is a resin that been used as incense and in medicine for over 5,000 years. Revered for its sweet aromas, the resin has been found in ancient Egyptian tombs and according to the Bible, was given as a gift when Jesus was born. Today, frankincense oil is used commercially in aromatherapy, natural medicine, cosmetics, and perfumes. Karl Winters discusses the history of frankincense and why it’s becoming a star ingredient in the world of luxury perfumery.
The word Frankincense originates from the French words “franc encenc” which literally means “pure lighting” or “pure incense”. Other common names are “olibanum” in Latin, “luban” in Arabic and “levonah” in Hebrew. The Frankincense resin is harvested from Boswellia, a species of trees that grows around the horn of Africa and Arabian Peninsula. Its recognizable by its short trunks and curly green leaves that grow around the dark red wood. Of the 20 species of Boswellia, only 4-5 have the gift of scent, and are found in the countries of Oman, Yemen, Somalia and Ethiopia.
It’s not surprising that the Boswellia tree thrives in harsh dry environments. Like a desert bonsai, its roots emerge out of desert rocks, which is testament to the vigor of this magnificent tree. At 10 years of age, the tree starts producing a precious aromatic resin within its bark. To ensure longevity, many farmers delay harvesting of the resin until the tree reaches a mature age of 15- 20 years. The practice of sustainability protects the trees and increases the likelihood that they thrive in the years to come.
Resins are thick, viscous substances that are secreted by the bark of trees. Frankincense farmers tap the Boswellia tree by making small incisions along the bark, effectively releasing the resin within seconds! This is the tree’s natural mechanism to protecting itself from infections and pathogens like insects. After 10-15 days, the farmer returns to extract the hardened resin, and the whole process is repeated several times. Once the harvest is collected, it is separated into different grades based on color, shape and aroma. This tends to be a time-consuming process as the farmers seek out high quality resins that are favored by customers.
The popularity of aromatherapy and alternative health products reflects the tremendous growth of the wellness industry. A new generation of health-conscious consumers are entering the market, increasing demand for wellness products such as frankincense, myrrh and sandalwood. With little to no regulation in place, frankincense farmers are pressured to produce higher resin quantities from the same number of trees. This has resulted in overharvesting of tree populations, resulting in weaker trees that eventually die off. Sustainability practices prioritize the health of the Boswellia trees, ensuring that they are protected from becoming extinct.
The country of Oman is a destination known to produce the world’s best Frankincense. 1,000 miles Southeast of the capital Muscat lies Salalah, a historical city that played a pivotal role in the Frankincense Trail. Also called the “perfume capital of Arabia”, the Salalah region is where the Boswellia Sacra tree grows, producing an exceptionally fine and very fragrant frankincense. Seldom exported, it is at the heart of Oman’s cultural identity, connecting locals to their heritage, nature, and spiritual life.
In the Salalah region is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that was established in 2000 to protect more than 1,200 Boswellia Sacra trees. It also includes the remains of ancient archeological sites that are testament to Oman’s contributions as a major trade hub in The Frankincense Trail.
The most refined and beautiful variety of frankincense is Al-Hojari. It appears as a royal yellow/green resin that is tapped from the Boswellia Sacra trees in the Salalah region. Al-Hojari is expensive because of its high medicinal value and distinctive aromas that are described as sparkling, citrus, refreshing and woody. A divine and humbling experience for any frankincense aficionado!
A new generation of consumers are interested in luxury perfumes made with a high concentration of natural ingredients. Frankincense is an example of a natural raw material that has become an invaluable asset for any perfumer. Fragrance creation poses a technical challenge: it offers a multi-faceted olfactive journey that is versatile, but the effects of the fragrance oil tends to be short-lived. Frankincense reveals its elusive character depending on what its mixed with: it evokes a mysterious brightness with green citrus fragrances, which contrasts with the rich smokiness it radiates in oriental scents like oud and vetiver.
Amouage is an Omani based luxury fragrance house that was established in 1983. The brand’s vision set out to create “The Gift of Kings” connecting “modern, refined French perfumery” with the “traditional values of Arab culture”. Its value proposition lies in the sourcing of high-quality ingredients such as frankincense from the Salalah region. Pushing the boundaries of creativity, House of Amouage commissions master perfumers to develop high end perfumes such as “Interlude 53”, retailing for $500 USD per 100ml bottle. Amouage today is a leading luxury fragrance house with an expanding international presence that includes 14 standalone boutiques and record sales of $210 million in 2023.
Notes: Copal, ozone, frankincense, cardamon, patchouli, tonka bean, amber.
Size: 3.4oz
Price: $343 USD
Release Date: 2014
Amouage’s aspirations to appeal to a sophisticated international audience takes shape with the launch of Jubilation XXV. Perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour develops a fascinating olfactive profile that is mellow, mysterious, and uplifting. A complex perfume that combines the silver brightness of Omani incense with soft woodiness of cedar and guaiac wood. Rose, myrrh, and blackberry introduce a sweet accord that it not too overbearing. Jubilation XXV offers a frankincense scent that is in stark contrast Interlude 53, which is more intense, woody and bold. Overall, Jubilation XXV delivers a world class incense perfume that is delicate enough to be worn at any black-tie event.
Notes: Blackberry, olibanum, orange, labdanum, coriander, tarragon, honey, guaiac wood, cinnamon, oud.
Size: 3.4oz
Price: $343 USD
Release Date: 2007
Notes: Roman chamomile, cistus oil, incense, elemi vanilla, patchouli.
Size: 1.69 oz
Price: $105 USD
Release Date: 2007
Cire Trudon is considered one of the oldest candle makers, having produced candles for the French Court during the 18th century. With a well-established home fragrance line of luxury candles, diffusers and sprays, the brand launched its first collection of 5 luxury perfumes. For Motel, they tapped the expertise of Parisian perfumer Yann Vasnier. He creates a lovely perfume using Somalian frankincense, mystical as well as smooth notes of black pepper. Rounding the perfume with notes that include mystical and cedar woody notes.
Notes: Somalian Frankincense, mystical, black pepper, benzoin, myrrh.
Size: 3.4 oz
Price: $260 USD
Release Date: 2017
Amouage launched Interlude 53 Man in 2020, which is a follow up to the original Interlude back in 2012. Designed by perfumer Pierre Negrin, the “Blue Beast” pushes the limits of frankincense creativity by adopting a powerful, bold, and enigmatic olfactive profile. The name Interlude 53 is in reference to the 53% concentration of the oil- an unusually high concentration that explains the tenacity of this perfume, which can go as long as 12 hours. Interlude offers some lovely green facets that are contrasted with amber, and labdanum, offering a longer lasting aroma experience. Another masterpiece from Amouage that sets to raise the bar in luxury perfumery.
Notes: Bergamot, amber, frankincense, opoponax, leather, oud, patchouli, sandalwood.
Size: 3.4 oz
Price: $520 USD
Release Date: 2021
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